We had planned for a three day bike trip to discover more of our beloved Charente region. In a few words: start in La Rochelle, head for the Marais Poitevin up north, then down to Cognac and back to Ile d’Oléron through the marshlands.
But since we were in Oléron before the start, we decided to add another day to our trip and rally La Rochelle with the bikes.
We didn’t have a defined map, just my knowledge of the area and a map of Charente-Maritime (TOP100, La Rochelle – Saintes, 1:100000th, IGN) bought in the morning.
We left at a quarter past two after eating with my gran. We only took the bare minimum:
- two jerseys (I lent Froggie my Look jersey to match her new bike)
- one pair of cycling shorts each (we’d have to wash them by hand in the evenings)
- one set of ‘normal’ clothing for the evening
- swimming costumes (in the end we didn’t use these)
- basic repair tools
- rain jackets
- sunscreen
- lots of cereal bars
-
a small first aid kit

The Frog would again serve as food supplier/paramedic with her Camelback, and I would carry the main load with my new Carradice bag (a birthday gift from my darling).

We rode out of Oléron at a good pace (30kph avg), using the secondary road network to avoid the main road (D734) which is crowded during the high season. Then came the dreaded bridge to the continent. Luckily it wasn’t too windy yet (low tide) so apart from the cars being a little too close for comfort, we could admire the view from the top and speed up on the way down (40kph for her, 58kph for me).



Right after the bridge I again left the main road and headed for Brouage. It took us a bit more time than planned to reach the fortified village. The small roads we used to get there were pretty rough and we were still stopping quite often to make minor position adjustements on the Look (shakedown ride remember!) – and everyone knows how crucial it is to find a comfortable riding position on your bike in order to enjoy the ride.


We then arrived in Soubise where we crossed the Charente river on a ferry reserved for bikes and pedestrians. The ferryman told us to ask the builders on the other side if we could use the bike path they were working on (instead of making a detour through the center of Rochefort).

Over the noise of the machines, they indicated that the path was fine and soon we could smell the hot tar, already covered by a bed of rough white gravel. We pedalled on fearlessly, both of us having recently equipped our bikes with fresh Continental Gatorskins (25c on the Look, 23c on the Time).

After Rochefort, we continued on the small roads now part of the Vélodyssée. These roads are almost completely empty of cars, the more recent dual carriageway giving them a speedier alternative.

We got to Châtelaillon-Plage, but then the bike path started taking us through a residential maze of tiny, zigzagging streets. Our ground speed was mediocre since we were constantly slowing down at junctions and blind angles – the distance separating us from the finish wasn’t dropping fast enough for our taste.

We started to feel tired since we hadn’t been out riding at all since Normandy, what with the Frog’s wrist issues and me coming to the end of my hectic school year. Once we were on the mainland (riding north), we could feel the headwind slowing us down. Excuses I know, I am ashamed to admit it myself, but for now we’re really not optimally fit. Kudos to the Frog, who prefers to stay in front at her own pace, meaning that she took most of the headwind for the majority of our trip. Her pace is steady but she’s not quite comfortable adjusting to somebody else’s pace yet. As a result, apart from top speed, the numbers given are hers – I only overtook when leading the way through villages or in one or two big descents.

Back in Aytré, I finally recognised the route and encouraged Froggie by telling her that the old port was only a short ride away and we were soon at her aunty Ven’s.

The shower felt amazing, as well as the rosé and the saucisson. The “coûp de grâce” came in the form of a chicken noodle soup, fish pie, followed by cheese and salad and polished off with an apricot & walnut tart. Of course everything was homemade and carefully prepared with love by our host. Thank you again Ven, it is always a delight to spend time at your place.
The only thing left to do was go to sleep, so we obliged.
85km, AVG21.9kph, MAX58.8/42.4kph